Wait a minute . . .

This is not Iraq . . . but the inside of a huge warehouse in Qatar where servicemembers are allowed to take a 4 day R&R pass during their tour.

Yes, the time had come for some rest and recuperation from Iraq and of everyplace I could go, I went to Qatar earlier this month. If you are assigned to Iraq for 6 months or more, you are eligible for four days off IN A ROW! You can choose between going to Qatar or, if you prefer, Qatar. One of the U.S. bases in Qatar has a large R&R operation - they do a pretty good job of it all and honestly, after spending 30 hours trying to get there on what must have been at least 4 canceled/diverted/disappearing flights, we all needed the R&R.

It is all housed in nondescript giant warehouses - even an 8 lane bowling alley. But wait! What says rest and recuperation better than ARMY RULES AND REGULATIONS! Yessss . . . like one long AFN commercial (see the December 18th post). Everyone was allowed THREE beers or glasses of wine per day between the hours of 1800 and 2355. $5 each. No happy hour prices. What, you think I didn't ask? That's right servicemembers, we trust you to operate multi-million dollar equipment, and we count on you to put your life on the line, but yeah, sorry, we don't trust you to drink responsibly, so we need scan your ID card each time you buy a drink to make sure you only have three. (Editors note: Odd, no one asked for my ID when you issued me a sidearm). You had to be chaperoned on an officially sponsored trip to leave base. For those of you who are familar with my travel history and penchant for wondering about a new locale unimpeded, such rules were frustrating. But we were still able to get out an about.

The Art of the Haggle

"Salam welekum my storekeeper friend . . . you may note that I am buying TWO items from your fine establishment, not just one. What is the price for a volume buyer such as myself?" "Oh come now, surely you have a better price for someone who speaks Arabic as well I a do . . . ."

What did I love about Qatar? The same thing I love about Nicaragua, Bangladesh, Taiwan and countless other countries - not only can you haggle, you are EXPECTED to haggle. In fact, it is considered rude NOT to haggle. Being a citizen diplomat, who am I to cast off this local custom, so bargain I did! Sometimes I didn't even want the stuff. But seriously, the Qataris that I came across were really very kind and hospitable (after I told them I was Canadian . . .).

Qatar is on an incredible building spree and has arisen from the desert sand as a modern society in only the last 20 years. Here is a video of part of downtown Doha and the mall we visited.

Old versus new: Dhows not so different from those that have plied the Persian gulf for centuries are framed against the modernity of steel and glass in the sand haze behind them.

The Doha Cultural Center looms large in the shopping district.

Got Plans for Summer 2016?If Qatar gets its way, this will be the sight of the summer games in a short 8 years. Why wait to be awarded the games, we have a little pocket change lying around . . . we'll build the stadium and torch now.

Need carpets, rugs? Moosh moosh kah lah! [not a problem] in Doha! Having not spent more than a few hundred dollars in the past four months, my repressed American consumer mentality was unleashed on this unsuspecting vendor. Well, okay, he probably WAS expecting it.

Hookas sit idle on a balcony above a cafe in old Doha.

The scene at on of many marinas dotting the inlets of the Persian Gulf. Based on the size of the boats here, this one must be reserved for the crafts of household help.


Falconry by Camelback

Although I was repeatedly assured that this camel was of the finest breeding and would garner me accolades and fame at the local camel track, I made the decision to shop around a bit before I committed.

I don't think I look real good in this photo, but I didn't care, it's not like the falcon knew.