We flew in on a C130 and entered the, by standards around here, palatial passenger terminal. The tiled floor, drop ceiling, bright lights, new chairs and fresh restrooms led me to only one conclusion: THIS PLACE IS RUN BY THE AIR FORCE! Almost like a plane safety video in the states, all new arrivals are required to watch a mortar safety video. Camp Anaconda, affectionately nicknamed Mortaritaville, was hit with mortars on average twice a day in past years. Things have improved – no mortars during my visit.
This is a NICE camp. Large movie theater, huge gym, well paved streets, great PX and almost the perfect cinnamon roll at the DFAC. I consider myself a connoisseur of only a few things (good taste being prime among them ;-) but one thing I am a connoisseur of is the cinnamon roll – well done Camp Anaconda. Now lets get some hummus on order for these carrot sticks at lunch and call it a day. Once again, my living situation improved to a two-man trailer room that I shared with Frank. No in-room bathroom but hey, I really don’t ask for much these days.
But all of this was really just the lead-up. The best part of Camp Anaconda was flying home under the glow of a full moon . . . in a UH60 Blackhawk. I gotta get me one of these! The Blackhawk holds up to 12 passengers plus a crew of four - pilot, co-pilot and two gunners manning M240H machine guns on either side. The side windows have been removed to facilitate what the crew chief liked to call “Pax assistance.” You’ll remember that “pax” is the super cool military word for passengers . . . In any case, pax assistance means returning fire. We are all in trouble if I end up having to return fire with an M9 from a helicopter. But the bonus – the nighttime wind in your face and an incredible view of the landscape.
If you look closely, you can see my first Blackhawk-ride behind me. Looks like this is the first time I ever wore a kevlar helmut too . . . .We had been warned that, as standard operating procedure, the gunners would do a test fire when we cleared the base. The petty officer sitting across from me must not have heard that part of the brief – he almost broke out of his harness when it happened.
We flew low and fast over bucolic farmland and little villages that smattered the terrain below until looming ahead were the lights of Baghdad. Note the important word in that sentence – LIGHTS. Baghdad has power and plenty of it. The only thing really missing? Cars on the streets below – it’s still not safe. Our flight pattern took us on a circuitous route to the helo terminal, offering even more time to enjoy the thrill.
No more C130s for me.



The drained and cracked fountain outside of the U.S. Mission, formerly Saddam’s seat of government, may prove allegorical for the end state of this country if its leaders cannot put aside tribal and religious zealotry and work towards a new Iraq.
A fellow LT, my friend Juan and I, join Flat Stanley in a photo. Flat Stanley was part of a school project for the daughter of one of our colleagues.
At Al Asad, my living situation improved dramatically, if only for two nights. I had my own space, with my own bathroom. I was thinking I might just stay.
Is that WATER?
Abandoned Iraqi MiGs are all over the base. Before the invasion, they Iraqi Air Force spread out all their planes in an attempt to prevent their destruction by bombs . . .

Much like what you may think is a good looking girl across the bar until you get closer, the palace buildings here are impressive and imposing from afar, but shoddy and substandard close-up. There are plumbing problems all over the place and in my office, which is part of the palace complex, there are signs above each commode warning people that the system can handle nothing more than liquid, not even toilet paper. I originally was ready to attribute the poor condition of the buildings to the U.S. but then realized that was not the case - the buildings were just very poorly built.

We are all on the waiting list. I’d really like to be able to unpack my stuff but 1) there is no where near enough room for everything and 2) I’d like to stay optimistic that I will rise to the top of the list soon. There are only 13 other LTs ahead of me. I really feel for the DOD civilian employees at the GS12 level and below - some have been on the waiting list since May . . .
My first photo in Baghdad. Here I am on the tarmac after getting out of the C-130 behind me.





Can you hear me now? This radio was state-of-the-art in 1984, which is why the Navy bought it in 1996.
Subject Bob Kurkjian, in his natural state, Tommy Bahama shirt, bare feet, with gin and tonic close by and checking the USC football team rankings online . . . . joined by Colin Challis.

